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+---
+description: "3D printed Star wars prop"
+created: 2026-08-05
+---
+
+![helmet](helmet.webp)
+
+---
+
+File used: [Phase 2 Clone trooper Helmet (Wearable version) - printables.com](https://www.printables.com/model/237810-phase-2-clone-trooper-helmet-wearable-version)
+
+
+## Slicing
+
+![](naive_slice.webp)
+
+Naively dragging the file into the slicer shows that it does not fit onto the build plate of my Ender 3 3D printers,
+making an imaginary printer with the dimmensions to fit such a large print reveals that it would take
+4 days and 12 hours to print (without support material), (and use ≈ 1kg of filament).
+This is not feasible, the solution is to break the print into smaller pieces,
+that fit onto the build plate, and constraints it to a size where, should a fatal error occur,
+it will be contained to one salvageable piece.
+I elected to slice these smaller parts myself, instead of using the pre-cut pieces from the author.
+This was to make the pieces smaller so they would print during the day, and i could turn the printers of at night
+(they're in my bedroom). Were i to print a helment again, i would find a different solution.
+As the pieces take a non-insignificant amount of time to join seamlessly.
+You can hide seams under ledges, and on flat stretches without details.
+
+
+![](parts/Clone_Phase2_Fixed (1)_17h39m_0.16mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp)
+![](parts/Clone_Phase2_Fixed (1)_12h8m_0.16mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp)
+![](parts/Clone_Phase2_Fixed (1)_12h3m_0.16mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp)
+![](parts/Clone_Phase2_Fixed (1)_10h59m_0.16mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp)
+![](parts/Clone_Phase2_Fixed (1)_6h56m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp)
+![](parts/Clone_Phase2_Fixed (1)_6h37m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp)
+![](parts/Clone_Phase2_Fixed (1)_5h36m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp)
+![](parts/Clone_Phase2_Fixed (1)_5h22m_0.16mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp)
+![](parts/Clone_Phase2_Fixed (1)_5h19m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp)
+![](parts/Clone_Phase2_Fixed (1)_5h14m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp)
+![](parts/Clone_Phase2_Fixed (1)_4h16m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp)
+![](parts/Clone_Phase2_Fixed (1)_4h14m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp)
+
+---
+
+## Assembling pieces
+
+I assembled the pieces as i went, using CA glue to hold it in place, and a cheap soldering iron.
+The soldering iron method works supprisingly well, producing solid joints akin to one piece,
+however burning the CA produces foul fumes. You can hide the seams by only joining them on the inside of the helmet.
+
+> ⚠️ Melting, sanding and painting should be done in a well ventilated area, and with a proper respirator.
+> You do not want dust and fumes in your lungs.
+
+The final piece wouldn't fit flat against the other pieces,
+but pouring boiling water on it, allowed me to bend it into shape.
+
+![](unfinished_inside_seams.webp)
+
+---
+
+## Filler and sanding
+
+To produce a good surface finish on the finished product, we need to get rid of the 3D printed layer lines.
+The best way to do this is to add a layer of automotive body filler (the stuff used to fill dents on car bodies).
+And sand this away until it reveals the 3D print underneath. I however only partly did this,
+i directly sanded the 3D print, and added wood Polyfilla from Jem og Fix.
+This was suboptimal, and took a looooong looooong time to sand.
+
+![](layers/layers.webp)
+![](layers/layers_filled.webp)
+![](layers/layers_filled_sanded.webp)
+
+
+![](unfinished_front.webp)
+![](unfinished_back.webp)
+
+---
+
+## Base color painting
+
+After you're sure you're happy with the sanding, you should add a filler primer to hide the last of the layer lines,
+i skipped this step and went overboard with the sanding instead. Spray paint it with the base color,
+letting it dry inbetween coats. Don't touch it.
+
+<video style="width: 100%" controls loop><source src="paint_booth_spin.mp4" type="video/mp4"></video>
+
+---
+
+## Accent colors (before weathering)
+
+After letting it dry, any details can be painted using cheap acrylic paint for an OK result.
+Although this can leave it with visible brush strokes and a cheapish semi-shiny look. Add some paint chipping effects.
+
+![](unweathered.webp)
+
+---
+
+## Finish (weathering)
+
+If you wish to go for a battle damaged look, you'll want to weather your model.
+First look up some videos on the subject, and put em on while you're sanding.
+First you'll want to give it a wash with dark acrylic paint,
+this allows for some sediment to accumilate in the nooks and crannies, like it would in real life.
+Next add some scuffs and scratches, preferably ones that would come from actual use,
+like ones that hit the most exposed parts, continuing from one raised part to the next.
+
+The most important part is: Don't go overboard, it's really easy to get carried away,
+but this will look distasteful and like you're trying to hard.
+
+![](front.webp)
+![](back.webp)
+![](top.webp)
+![](grate.webp)
+
+---
+
+## Details
+
+### Visor
+
+For the visor i cut an acrylic sheet to size using a dremel and added some [window tint from Jysk](https://jysk.dk/gardiner/vinduesfolie/vinduesfolie-feren-45x200-tonet).
+I heated it with a blow torch and bend it around a round object of roughly the right radius.
+It looks someone non-uniform as it warps, and the film doesn't stick that well to the acrylic,
+but it get's the job done. Perhaps a thinner material would be better.
+
+![](visor.webp)
+
+---
+
+### Stripes
+
+![](stripes.webp)
+
+I made the stripes by 2D printing a stencil, and cut them out of vinyl, i think this turned out really well,
+as it adds a bit of 3D and texture change, i think paint would have looked less well put together.
+
+---
+
+### Padding
+
+Lastly i added some packing foam to the inside adhered with hot glue, as it allows for removal.
+
+![](inside.webp)
+
+---
+
+## Leasons learned:
+
+- Size it virtually before printing, it tured out a bit big, i knew this could be an issue,
+  but i was too negligent and eager to begin.
+  Perhaps a 3D scan of ones head would work well.
+- The ammount of work saved by printing larger instead of smaller ones, is worth it.
+- Get a cheap soldering iron for this purpose, with temperature adjustment, the ones without get too hot.
+- Sanding sucks, use a better automotive body filler and filler primer, and use a machine.
+- Use the galactic armory model with a metal grate.
+- Rework the visor, perhaps methodology, parhaps materials, as it's a bit wobbly.
+  Perhaps a thin corona visor would me more mailable and easy to shape.
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+---
+description: "3D printed Star wars props"
+created: 2025-05-25
+---
+
+![lightsabers](lightsabers.webp)
+![](emitter.webp)
+![](rust.webp)
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