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diff --git a/212'th Clone trooper helmet/index.md b/212'th Clone trooper helmet/index.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3f49b08 --- /dev/null +++ b/212'th Clone trooper helmet/index.md @@ -0,0 +1,157 @@ +--- +description: "3D printed Star wars prop" +created: 2026-08-05 +--- + + + +--- + +File used: [Phase 2 Clone trooper Helmet (Wearable version) - printables.com](https://www.printables.com/model/237810-phase-2-clone-trooper-helmet-wearable-version) + + +## Slicing + + + +Naively dragging the file into the slicer shows that it does not fit onto the build plate of my Ender 3 3D printers, +making an imaginary printer with the dimmensions to fit such a large print reveals that it would take +4 days and 12 hours to print (without support material), (and use ≈ 1kg of filament). +This is not feasible, the solution is to break the print into smaller pieces, +that fit onto the build plate, and constraints it to a size where, should a fatal error occur, +it will be contained to one salvageable piece. +I elected to slice these smaller parts myself, instead of using the pre-cut pieces from the author. +This was to make the pieces smaller so they would print during the day, and i could turn the printers of at night +(they're in my bedroom). Were i to print a helment again, i would find a different solution. +As the pieces take a non-insignificant amount of time to join seamlessly. +You can hide seams under ledges, and on flat stretches without details. + + +_17h39m_0.16mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp) +_12h8m_0.16mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp) +_12h3m_0.16mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp) +_10h59m_0.16mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp) +_6h56m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp) +_6h37m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp) +_5h36m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp) +_5h22m_0.16mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp) +_5h19m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp) +_5h14m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp) +_4h16m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp) +_4h14m_0.20mm_205C_PLA_ENDER3PRO.webp) + +--- + +## Assembling pieces + +I assembled the pieces as i went, using CA glue to hold it in place, and a cheap soldering iron. +The soldering iron method works supprisingly well, producing solid joints akin to one piece, +however burning the CA produces foul fumes. You can hide the seams by only joining them on the inside of the helmet. + +> ⚠️ Melting, sanding and painting should be done in a well ventilated area, and with a proper respirator. +> You do not want dust and fumes in your lungs. + +The final piece wouldn't fit flat against the other pieces, +but pouring boiling water on it, allowed me to bend it into shape. + + + +--- + +## Filler and sanding + +To produce a good surface finish on the finished product, we need to get rid of the 3D printed layer lines. +The best way to do this is to add a layer of automotive body filler (the stuff used to fill dents on car bodies). +And sand this away until it reveals the 3D print underneath. I however only partly did this, +i directly sanded the 3D print, and added wood Polyfilla from Jem og Fix. +This was suboptimal, and took a looooong looooong time to sand. + + + + + + + + + +--- + +## Base color painting + +After you're sure you're happy with the sanding, you should add a filler primer to hide the last of the layer lines, +i skipped this step and went overboard with the sanding instead. Spray paint it with the base color, +letting it dry inbetween coats. Don't touch it. + +<video style="width: 100%" controls loop><source src="paint_booth_spin.mp4" type="video/mp4"></video> + +--- + +## Accent colors (before weathering) + +After letting it dry, any details can be painted using cheap acrylic paint for an OK result. +Although this can leave it with visible brush strokes and a cheapish semi-shiny look. Add some paint chipping effects. + + + +--- + +## Finish (weathering) + +If you wish to go for a battle damaged look, you'll want to weather your model. +First look up some videos on the subject, and put em on while you're sanding. +First you'll want to give it a wash with dark acrylic paint, +this allows for some sediment to accumilate in the nooks and crannies, like it would in real life. +Next add some scuffs and scratches, preferably ones that would come from actual use, +like ones that hit the most exposed parts, continuing from one raised part to the next. + +The most important part is: Don't go overboard, it's really easy to get carried away, +but this will look distasteful and like you're trying to hard. + + + + + + +--- + +## Details + +### Visor + +For the visor i cut an acrylic sheet to size using a dremel and added some [window tint from Jysk](https://jysk.dk/gardiner/vinduesfolie/vinduesfolie-feren-45x200-tonet). +I heated it with a blow torch and bend it around a round object of roughly the right radius. +It looks someone non-uniform as it warps, and the film doesn't stick that well to the acrylic, +but it get's the job done. Perhaps a thinner material would be better. + + + +--- + +### Stripes + + + +I made the stripes by 2D printing a stencil, and cut them out of vinyl, i think this turned out really well, +as it adds a bit of 3D and texture change, i think paint would have looked less well put together. + +--- + +### Padding + +Lastly i added some packing foam to the inside adhered with hot glue, as it allows for removal. + + + +--- + +## Leasons learned: + +- Size it virtually before printing, it tured out a bit big, i knew this could be an issue, + but i was too negligent and eager to begin. + Perhaps a 3D scan of ones head would work well. +- The ammount of work saved by printing larger instead of smaller ones, is worth it. +- Get a cheap soldering iron for this purpose, with temperature adjustment, the ones without get too hot. +- Sanding sucks, use a better automotive body filler and filler primer, and use a machine. +- Use the galactic armory model with a metal grate. +- Rework the visor, perhaps methodology, parhaps materials, as it's a bit wobbly. + Perhaps a thin corona visor would me more mailable and easy to shape. |